We're having our first hint of autumn here in Virginia, but in the Carolina and Georgia Lowcountry where I spent four decades of my life, summer lingers well into October. And even though autumn is whispering in our ears and we're now more than four hundred miles away from the Lowcountry, this is still when we begin to crave one of the lovely staples of the region's late-summer tables: butterbeans over rice.
Actually, beans or field peas with rice are staples down there throughout the year, but mid-to-late summer is when butterbeans (both the pale green and brown speckled varieties) are seasonal.
You may, by the way, call these broad, flat beans "limas" out of a Southerner's hearing, but don't do it in front of us. And don't try to argue that lima and butterbeans are actually the same thing. It won't change our minds and will only annoy us and frustrate you.
But never mind what these lovely beans are called. Regardless of whether they've actually been enriched with butter or with salt-cured pork, combining them with fluffy hot rice is comfort in a bowl. That's probably why, when the weather and dust stirred up from some deep cleaning set off our allergies, nothing else would do. Although, as we settled in with warm, soul-healing bowls of these butter-enriched beans and rice, it wasn't merely a comfort, but medical necessity.
Butterbeans and Rice
Serves 2-4, depending on whether it's a side or main dish
3 cups (about 1 pound shelled weight) fresh or good-quality frozen green butterbeans, butter peas, or small green lima beans such as Ford Hooks
Salt
2-4 tablespoons first quality salted or unsalted butter
4 cups hot Southern-Style Steamed Rice (recipe follows)
Whole black pepper in a mill
1. Rinse the fresh beans in a colander under cold running water (rinsing frozen ones isn't necessary). Put them in a heavy-bottomed 2-3-quart saucepan and completely cover them with cold water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off the foamy scum as it rises, then reduce the heat to medium low, loosely cover, and simmer, stirring frequently, until the beans are nearly tender, about 12 to 20 minutes. The time will vary depending on the beans, and frozen ones should take less, so start checking them after about 12 minutes.
2. Uncover, season well with salt, stir, and simmer, uncovered, until they are very tender and their juice is beginning to reduce, about 5 minutes more. They can be made ahead to this point. Remove them from the heat, let cool completely and, if cooking them more than 2-3 hours ahead, transfer them to a storage container, cover tightly, and refrigerate until needed. If the liquid has gotten too thick in the meantime, add a splash or so of water and reheat them gently over medium heat, stirring often.
3. If, when the beans are tender, the liquid isn't somewhat reduced and thick (it usually will be if you've made them ahead because the liquid thickens in storage), briefly raise the heat to medium high and boil until it is lightly thickened, watching and frequently stirring them so that they don't get too dry or scorch. There should still be a good bit of liquid, so don't evaporate it too much.
4. Turn off the heat and remove the pan from it. Stir in butter to taste until it has melted and thickened the cooking liquid still more. Serve at once over hot rice, passing the peppermill or freshly milled pepper separately for those who want it.
Southern-Style Steamed Rice
In all the time I lived in the Lowcountry, I never owned a classic Charleston rice pot (steamer), nor invested in an electric rice cooker. It took a while to land on the right method for achieving rice with fluffy, distinctly separate grains without either of those, but while the method I settled upon was considered a bit unorthodox by other Lowcountry cooks, it always worked for me.
Makes about 4 cups
1 cup raw long-grain rice (I use Basmati)
Salt
1. Put the rice into a large bowl and completely cover it with cold water. Gently rub it between your hands until the water is milky with starch. Carefully drain off the water and repeat 3-4 times with fresh water until the water is mostly clear. Transfer the rice to a heavy-bottomed pot (I use enameled iron) and add a scant 2 cups of cold water. Add a generous pinch of salt, gently stir to dissolve it, than put the pot over medium heat. Bring it to a lively simmer and adjust the heat to medium low. Cook until the water is almost absorbed and large steam holes have formed in the rice, about 12 minutes.
2. Gently fold the top rice under, cover the pot tightly, and cook 1 minute longer. Turn off the heat and let it steam 12 minutes longer without lifting the lid. It can sit for up to an hour like this without damage. When you're ready to serve the rice, fluff it with a fork and serve immediately.