For years, every single Easter I sang in choir for as many as three services and still managed to host a formal lunch for as many as eight people. The menu rarely varied: it began with chilled carrot puree, followed by both a roast leg of lamb and ham, potato gratin, and asparagus—either with Hollandaise or finished "alla parmigiana" (layered with butter and Parmesan cheese and baked).
But then a pandemic, our move to Virginia, and the ugly reality of getting older descended on me, and that Easter lunch has gradually shrunk. This year it was to just the two of us.
But dwindling numbers and stamina weren't the only things that changed. Not only has lamb gotten terribly expensive, the only roasting cut I could find was a whole bone-in leg—out of the question for two people, one of which will barely eat lamb in a shepherd's pie. They did, however, have meaty round-bone shoulder chops a bit of the tasty rib portion attached, and on sale. There were lovely fat roasting chickens, something both of us would enjoy, and my traditional menu would go well with it. Our feast for two might not be completely traditional, then, it would still feel like Easter. A chicken went into my shopping basket.
Still, for my part, it isn't Easter without lamb, and I turned back to those shoulder chops. They were perfect for a make-ahead stew to enjoy as our first Easter meal after the vigil on Saturday night. A couple of pounds of those went into the basket as well.
Lamb Stew with Rosemary and Garlic
Because I'm a Southern boy, there is always a bottle of Worcestershire sauce nearby, and while it's an unorthodox addition to stews whose flavor profiles were otherwise Mediterranean, that evening the gravy needed a little pick-up, so I dashed in a little and that did the trick. Leave it out, or add a dash of your own favorite flavoring condiment—soy, hoisin, mushroom catsup, even fish sauce—but don't overdo it.
Serves 4
4 1-inch-thick round-bone shoulder lamb chops (about 2½-2¾ pounds)
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium or 2 large cloves garlic
1 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth
6 3-inch sprigs rosemary
About 1½-to-2 cups lamb, chicken, or beef broth
4 large or 6 medium gold potatoes
8-12 small young carrots
2 rounded tablespoons instant blending flour
Worcestershire sauce (optional)
1. Position a rack in the mid-to-lower third of the oven and preheat to 325° F. Wrap the chops in a couple of layers of paper towels and pat dry. Unwrap and season lightly with salt and pepper. Film a heavy-bottomed 11-inch skillet with olive oil and put it over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the chops and brown them well, about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove them from the pan to a plate.
2. Add the garlic to the pan. Sauté until it is fragrant and colored a pale gold, about 1 minute. Add the wine, stirring and scraping the pan to remove any cooking residue, and bring it to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat.
3. Choose a 3-4 quart flameproof (such as enameled iron) casserole that will hold the chops in two layers. Lay half the sprigs of rosemary on the bottom of it. Lay two of the chops over them and then add the remaining two chops. Top them with the remaining rosemary and pour the wine and garlic over them. Add enough broth to barely cover the chops. Cover the casserole and bake in the middle-to-lower-third of the oven for about an hour.
4. When the lamb has baked for about an hour, scrub the potatoes but don't peel them. Cut them into large chunks. Scrub the carrots and if they're not very young and fresh, lightly peel them. Cut them into 2-inch lengths. Remove the casserole from the oven, uncover, and spread the potatoes and carrots over the chops. Lightly season with salt and pepper, cover, and return the casserole to the oven. Bake until the lamb is falling off the bone tender and the vegetables are done, about an hour longer.
5. Remove the vegetables to a warm bowl and cover. Remove the chops to a plate or platter and remove the bones and excess fat. Break or cut the meat into large chunks. Remove and discard the rosemary stems from the cooking liquid and put the casserole over direct medium heat. While it's coming back to a boil, mix the flour with twice as much water, blending until smooth.
6. When the stewing liquid is bubbling again, stir the flour paste again and, with a flat whisk, slowly whisk it into the liquid until it is lightly thickened (you may not need all of it) and continue whisking gently until the liquid is bubbling once again. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if you like adding a shot or so of Worcestershire or other condiment, and simmer a minute or two, then return the lamb and vegetables to the casserole. Let them heat through, about 2-3 minutes longer, and serve in warmed bowls with crusty bread.