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Recipes and Stories

11 December 2024: Christmas Baking and Candied Citrus Peel

Crystallized Orange Peel

 

Eleven dozen Christmas star-shaped cheese straws later, my holiday baking is beginning to get caught up. Next is the daunting job of baking the fruitcake. Daunting not because any step of it is all that difficult, but because it's a bit messy and does take three days.

 

Once upon a time fruitcakes took longer than that: The citrus peel (assuming one could even get oranges and lemons), had to be cleaned, blanched, and candied. The raisins, currants, and other dried fruits had to be "stoned" (not like we mean it nowadays—they didn't come already seeded), then reconstituted  Read More 

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10 December 2024: On Christmas Cheese Straws and Still Learning in the Kitchen

Crisp, Buttery Christmas Cheese Stars

 

One of the things I love best about cooking is that it's predictable (to a point) and yet always evolving.

 

Yes, there are certain reactions that are basic and scientific. If you add this to that, you'll get a predictable result. Handle pastry dough with tender finesse and it'll be delicate, flaky, and tender; treat it roughly and it'll be hard and tough. The opposite is true for a yeast bread dough. But even with things we've made a thousand times and gotten the same result for almost every one of those times, there's always the opportunity for that unexpected "aha" moment.

 

I've been making cheese straws for my entire adult life—longer if I count the hundreds of my mother's  Read More 

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